******************************************************************************************************************************************** Each new puppy will go home with a Puppy Care Basket, designed to make the adjustment to your new home go as smoothly as possible. We will include: a blanket with mom's scent, familiar potty pads and holder, familiar feed for the first few days, collar and leash, cow ear, bully chew, bone, soft toy, medical record keeper, Puppy Directions 101, AKC Information Hand-outs, copy of the Contract, and more.... It is our intent to help you through Puppy's New Home transition, and be available to you for guidance, as long as you need it.
to our new
GOLDEN PUPPY OWNERS!
June 2015 ....
Stay tuned for more happy families...
If you are interested in a GOLDEN FRIEND for your family, fill out a PUPPY QUESTIONNAIRE to join our PUPPY LIST! We are planning new litters of GOLDENS for September 2020 and Dec. 2020.
"Golden Retriever Puppies
101", or in other words, “Puppy Directions”
Revised Aug. 2020
(These same directions will be/were
given at Puppy Pick-up.)
Hold, cuddle, pet, love! Get your pup used to your scent, voice and
feel. So much is new; you have a very
young dog. Use the plans/procedures that you plan to use for his/her entire
life. Feed and crate at a consistent
time. Use the familiar blanket and toys
for bedtime. Expect some whining. Do NOT let your pup talk you into being a bedtime
partner! Bad habits are hard to
break. Potty often; pay attention to
his/her body language as to when he/she needs to go out. The leash will be new. Be patient.
Reward often. Speak softly. Keep stimulation and visitors to a minimum at
first. Enjoy your new family member!
Your puppy has been started on
Canidae All Life Stages, Multi-Protein Formula feed. (During his/her early development, I have
mixed this with a bit of Purina Large Breed Puppy Chow for the extra
calories. Continue this or not, as you
wish.) He/She eats about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of dry Canidae, moistened in water, 3
times a day. (This will soak up to a
measure of 1/2-3/4 cup.) I put my
measured feed in water, microwave it for 20 sec., and then let it soak. (I soak a new bowl after every feeding and
keep it in the microwave.) (Use the
Clarksville water just for water dish.)
First feeding has been at 6:00 am,
2nd at 12:00 and 3rd about 6:30. Add an
extra tablespoon every few days.
Gradually increase the morning and evening
meals until by about 6 mons. you are at two feedings, approximately 6:00 am and
6:00 pm. This is not in stone; your dog
will have to fit into your schedule.
Strive for consistency. Don’t
feed too late in the evening or he/she will not be able to wait until morning
Puppies act like fiends when they are
fed; they finish their meal in less than 60 seconds flat! They are not starving! Resist the urge in increase feed for a couple
of weeks. Weight will tell you when you
need to increase feed. A trim Golden is
a healthy dog; an obese Golden is in danger of health problems and a shorter life
If puppy's stool becomes soupy, you
are feeding too much. Increase gradually
over the months, until he/she is eating about 2 ½-3 cups a day, at one
year. Watch the waist. You want to see an indentation at the waist,
but not feel ribs. You may need to cut
back; Genesis and Max only eat about 2 cups a day-Liberty and Poppet eat
about 3 cups a day.
(If you notice soupy stools, not
related to dietary changes, take a fresh stool sample to the vet for
analysis. Your dog might have picked up
Weigh your pup every week, holding it
in your arms on a scale and then subtracting your weight (or going to a local
vet/pet store to use the scale). Write
it down on the calendar and keep track of weekly gains. You will notice about one-pound average gain,
until age one. Golden females usually
run 55-65 lbs., males 60-70 lbs.
If you wish to switch feeds (not
suggested), please do this gradually by adding a little to each feeding for a
few days, change the balance slowly or you will have a pup with stomach
issues. Rule of thumb: change 1/4 the first week, 1/2 the second,
3/4 the third, and 100% the fourth week.
Take your pup out to potty
immediately after feeding and walk a bit.
If he/she doesn’t go, crate him/her or make the potty pad available.
Your puppy will NOT need any extra
supplements, vitamins, etc. The food is
complete. The only "extra"
added to our adult dog's diet is FortiFlora, a probiotic. This can be found at Chew.com.
For future reference if needed: a tablespoon of plain, active yogurt can
cure/avoid yeast infections (a few times a week), a tablespoon of crushed
pineapple will deter a dog of eating their own/other dog’s feces.
I will have three-days-worth of
Canidae/Puppy Chow Mix for you at Pick-up.
If possible, have clean, fresh water
available all day, until about 2 hours before bedtime. Don’t assume he/she is drinking, keep track
of water consumed. Puppies get so busy
playing and exploring their new world, that they sometimes forget to
drink! Your pup should be urinating
several times a day. They will probably
potty every time they are on grass.
Your puppy is used to using the Puppy
Pad indoors, and the grass outside. You
want to change him/her over to total outside potty practices. Take him/her outside EVERYTIME he/she wakes
up from a nap, starts looking for a “spot”, finishes eating or drinking, or if
he/she has not been outside for 2-3 wakeful hours. Walk around with him/her, but do not initiate
A pup can be expected to “hold” for
as many hours as his/her age. For
example, 2 mons. -2 hours, 3 mons. -3 hours, etc.
Indoors, when he/she is loose in the
house, keep the puppy pad available. After the first soiling of the pad, let
some of the scent remain. This will let
the pup know where the “OK spot” is.
If you must crate beyond your pup’s
time capabilities, let him/her have the full crate and put the potty pad
inside. Afterwards, resume the smaller
space and regular trips outside.
I suggest that you do NOT give the
puppy the run of the house at first; wait until he/she is dependably potty
trained. A kitchen area or non-carpeted
room will do well.
If your pup does have an accident,
clean it up promptly with a strong-smelling cleaner. You want to eliminate any urine/waste smell
so that the pup will not go back to this spot again. I use Arm and Hammer Pet Fresh Carpet Odor
Eliminator or Resolve Carpet Cleaner, on carpeted areas. Windex works well on
tile or linoleum.
I will have a familiar potty pad for
you, as well as a few pads, 24" x 23".
Stick to his/her regular kibble for
treats, crunchy and hard, subtracted from his/her total food intake. If you wish to use other treats, remember,
they add calories; adjust your feed accordingly. Use dried liver and/or very bland, simple
puppy sized biscuits, broken in two. I
use Mother Hubbard Puppy Biscuits. Bully
sticks, calf hooves and beef bones, prepared for pets, are great, as are calf
ears. Avoid rawhide and antlers/horns;
they can bind tummies or break teeth.
Monitor your pup when he/she is enjoying these treats. Throw away sharp or splintered treats and
Avoid treats with lots of color and
fancy flavoring. NEVER feed table/people
food. An overweight Golden is an
unhealthy Golden. Keep him/her
trim! A begging puppy is not a good
Teach your pup to take a treat nicely
by using the command “Leave it!” until you want him/her to take it gently out
of your hand.
Other than puppy-initiated activity,
do not begin a strenuous walking, running or jumping program with a puppy! Their bones, muscles and joints are growing
and developing. Growth plates willnot
close until around a year. Follow an Exercise
Plan to GRADUALLY institute an exercise plan if you wish. No jumping over obstacles, jumping up for
Frisbee, etc., until development can support it.
AKC suggests limiting “performance events” to
dogs 15 months and older. Build up to
walking on concrete or asphalt. Check
the temperature. Pavement that is too hot
can cause blisters/tears. A torn pad
takes a lot of time and effort to heal!
Puppies SLEEP ALOT! And then they recharge. Make sure your pup has uninterrupted sleep
time during the day, as well as at night.
Too much stimuli, all at once, is not good for the pup. Regulate
playtime, especially with children.
Your pup should not need anything
other than a regular collar and leash.
It will take time, patience and consistency to teach a “loose
leash”. Your Obedience Class will help
you. Do NOT use a retractable
leash. Using one, your pup will only be
Whatever a puppy can touch, he/she
will try to eat! Whatever a puppy can
see, he/she will try to chase! Whatever
is in puppy’s way, he/she will try to climb!
Etc., etc., etc.! Be watchful of
your new pup! You have a baby in your
house; keep him/her safe! Think of food,
plants, cleaners, small toys, pills, etc. that will be interesting to your new
Also, monitor small children with
your new pet. He/She doesn’t know how
rough to be or not be. Loud squeals
sound like his/her brothers and sisters at play. Children must be taught how to play with
pets, for their safety and that of the pet!
Remember, not everyone your pet meets
knows how to handle a puppy; give instruction as needed. You are your pet’s advocate. You do not want someone playing “slap hands”,
tug-a-war or “jump on me” games, etc., with your pet. He/She will learn lessons quickly...good ones
as well as bad.
I suggest a potty time just before
bedtime; if successful, crate immediately. Your pup’s last outing has been
between 10:00-11:00 each evening. You
may need to cover the crate with a sheet to let the pup know that playtime is
over. Be strict on the bedtime
routine. He/She will cry a bit, that’s
OK! If you hear a cry or whine in a few
hours, take him/her outside again. Do
NOT make this PLAYTIME or you will be teaching him/her to call you every time
he/she wants to play or is bored.
The words: “Puppy Come” should be the
key to bringing a wiggly puppy to your feet.
Reward with a piece of kibble.
Teach “Catch Me!” to use in case you cannot get your pup. Chasing a four-footed pup will NOT work in
most cases. Work on “Watch Me” for
Avoid petting your puppy when he/she
jumps up on you. Use the command “Off!”,
catch his/her collar and gently put him/her back on the floor for petting. Shun a pup that continually jumps up by
turning your back, do not acknowledge. A
quick knee up jerk may send a pup into a tumble, but he/she will learn the
lesson. What is cute at 10 lbs., may NOT
be cute at 50 lbs.!
NEVER play tug with a dog that you
want to stay gentle and sweet! Tug-a-war
is a game of competition/aggression.
He/She should always see you as the ALPHA.
You will be attending mandatory
training classes with your pup. You may
wish to skip Puppy Kindergarten and begin with Basic Obedience. Check with your instructor. (The STAR Puppy/Puppy Kindergarten does NOT
TAKE THE PLACE of a BASIC OBEDIENCE CLASS.)
Consistency is the key. It will
be best to have ONE person in charge of the training and have everyone else in
the household follow their lead. Use the
same words and signals; treat and reward in the same way.
Send proof of Class Graduation or a
handler/dog earned CGC Title/Certificate to redeem your $100.00 Training
Rebate; this is due within the first year.
I hope you enjoy your class so much,
that you continue into more advanced classwork.
Goldens need a job! Classes in
Obedience, Rally, Agility, Field Word, Trick Dog, Therapy Work, etc. make
Your pup WILL dig! It is natural. You may want to assign a small portion of
your yard for this activity. To deter a
dog from digging in a specific spot, bury small gauge chicken wire placed flat,
just under the surface. The wire will
hurt when the pup tries to dig there and he/she will go elsewhere.
Your pup WILL chew whatever is
available. When chewing something “off
limits”, firmly tell the pup “NO!" and offer an acceptable substitute. This includes fingers, hands, etc.!
We have worked hard to teach your pup
"No bite!" You will need to
reinforce this rule. If a stern "No
bite!" command does not deter the nipping behavior, a sharp rap of two
fingers on the snout should work. Do not
turn this into a game; make sure you have another hand on the pup if you
Your pup has had his/her basic shots
at 6 weeks, and 9 weeks. See their
Medical Record. The next round is due at
12 weeks and then at 15 weeks. He/She
has been wormed with Panacur at 5 weeks and 7 weeks. He/She will need continued worming throughout
his/her life. As we have Coccidia in our
area/woods, we administer Albon 10 days before Puppy Pick-up as a
precaution. Your pup tested negative for
this at their 9-week check.
Ask your vet about pest control. We use Frontline Gold on our adult dogs. It is a topical that keeps them safe from
fleas and ticks for a month at a time. Heartguard
is also used with all of our adult dogs.
Plan to get your pup Micro-chipped as
soon as the Vet allows. Put my name and
number down as a 2nd contact; send me the ID Chip number, needed for the AKC
Registration. A Bordetella/Kennel Cough
Vaccine is recommended, especially if he/she will be around other dogs.
Remember....your pup MUST go to the
Vet within 3 business days of your pick-up, for a check-up.
Most Vets will give you a first visit free of charge, in anticipation of
future services. Please let me know the
results of the visit.
Your pup has already had dew claws
removed, shots, and initial exams by my Vets (Eastview Animal Clinic,
Clarksville, Tn.-- 931-648-8111-- Dr. Loxley, Dr. Boarman, and Dr. Crowe). He/She was given a “Clean Bill of Health” at all
three vet visits.
Whatever toys you use, make sure you
check them periodically for wear. Avoid
soft plastic and rubber toys that will be easily chewed, and thereby
swallowed. Good choices include a few
soft, stuffed or "stuffless" cuddlies, cotton-knotted ropes, and
Always use a dog harness or a secured
crate to transport. Use one EVERY time
you transport. Both you and your dog are
safer. Stop every few hours for a potty
break and stretch. You MUST have a way
to secure your new pet when you come for your puppy pick-up. I will help you adjust any harness at that
time if you wish. I will have a starter
collar and leash for your pup.
At this early point, your pup will
only need a quick brush from the soft, rubber curry. Use this to clean dried mud, etc. Do not bathe unless you have to! Bathing dries out the natural oils in his/her
skin and creates dry, itchy skin. Spot
wash paws, head, etc., if truly necessary.
When you do bathe, about every 3-4
weeks (or less), use only a 1/8 cup or less, of mild shampoo in a gallon of
water, (1/4 cup or less as an adult). We
use Crown Royale #2, found on Amazon.
Sponge the pup with the shampoo mix and hose/rinse off. Towel dry.
Do NOT use human blow driers on a hot setting! These will dry out the coat/skin. I recommend using a pet/groomer dryer (Bear Dryers
are inexpensive and work well for a single dog.) If you can still smell the shampoo strongly,
you have used too much!
In addition to bathing, your pup will
need his/her ears cleaned before each bath.
Use a 1/2-1/2 mixture of vinegar and rubbing alcohol. Dip a towel in the mixture and clean out the
ear with a gentle rub. Do NOT pour any
solutions into the pup’s ear. Make sure
to cleanse away the solution with clear water on a towel and then towel dry the
Your pup will need his/her toenails trimmed
every 2 weeks or more. Make this a fun
chore; reward with kibble. Use dog
clippers as a pup. For adult dogs, you
will need a Dremel. Goldens have VERY
hard nails. Trim just below the quick
(dark line inside the nail). If you are
regular about this trimming, it will be an easy task. Skip it for a month or more...you will have a
problem. Holding a large, squirming
puppy is a difficult task.
In regards to hair trimming: use sharp scissors and trim feet, remove from
the bottom. Trim out all of the long
hair to keep a neat appearance and keep dirt and debris from causing foot
problems. Trim around the toes from the
top. Trim out the long hair in the ears. This will prevent ear problems due to excess
NEVER SHAVE A GOLDEN! If you have a real problem with matting, take
him/her to a groomer or bring him/her to me.
DO NOT LET A GROOMER SHAVE YOUR GOLDEN!
A Golden’s coat offers protection from both cold, sun, and heat; Goldens
do get sunburned.
Set up the crate in a low traffic
area if possible. Give him/her only a
small space for sleeping. Too large of a
space will allow him/her to sleep in one part and potty in the other. Dogs do not like to soil their sleeping
space! When he/she whines, take him/her
outside! At first, PICK UP the pup and carry him/her to the expected spot; or
you will have a puddle 2 feet from the crate!
Take him/her all the way to the place where you want him/her to go
potty. If he/she does not “go”, bring him/her back inside and crate again. Try going outside again in 15 minutes or when
he/she whines. It will not go smoothly
at first! Expect accidents and be
pleasantly surprised the times that it works.
Be consistent! It will take a few
weeks or more.
I use a wire Mid-west Collapse-able
Crate (30“ x 32“ x 42“-this is on the large size as I use it for two females
A dog will learn to LIKE his/her
crate and see it as his/her SAFE SPOT.
When the household is very busy or stressful for your pup, crate
As tempting as it is, please DO NOT
go overboard buying new items for your pup, until you have had your baby for a
few days. I will have the items you need
to get through the initial transition for you.
Until your pup has had all 4 parts of
their basic shots, it is best to keep your pup AWAY from other dogs. If you must take your pup to a “dog area”
(PetSmart, Petco, Vet’s Office for initial check, etc.), carry him/her. The floors are full of germs, etc. Your pup will not be fully protected until they
have all of the necessary vaccinations.
(You will need to get shots at 12 wks. and 15 wks.) When seeking a “potty stop” with your puppy,
choose a spot not frequented by other dogs.
Other people’s advice:
Listen to other’s advice. Ask your Vet.
BUT, make decisions based on your own pup and his/her situation, as well
as your family. If you have any
questions, give me a call:
931-237-0800. I will be glad to help if I can.
Always get a second opinion for any
serious procedures or concerns.
Read the latest info. on
spaying/neutering time frames. Listen to
your Vet. My advice is to wait close to
a year or until the pup is mature.
Spaying should NOT be performed before a first heat cycle (approximately
9-11 months.). Neutering should take
place until close to 18 months, if possible.
Send me the proof of the procedure.
I will, in turn, send you your AKC Registration Paperwork, as per
Contract. Remember, spaying or
neutering/vasectomizing, micro-chipping, and passing an accepted Obedience
Class with you dog, are required for AKC Registration Transfer.
Find a Boarding Facility that you
trust. Better yet, have a friend or relative stay at your home with the pup. If
you cannot find an available solution/facility, give me a call. I can temporarily board in a pinch,
especially a young pup. Boarding a young
puppy can be very traumatic for the pup.
Pet sitters, neighbors and/or family members and friends can be
wonderful helpers. If you are away for
the day, I suggest asking someone to come and feed, play with, and potty your
pup during that time.
Lost dog/catching a loose dog:
Teach “Catch Me!” Run from you pup calling “Catch me!”. Let him/her catch you and reward. This is the surest way to get your pup when
you really need him/her in a hurry. Do
not try to chase a puppy; you will lose the race. The pup will not only learn a game of running
from you, but could also put him-/herself in danger!
Relax and have fun with your dog
during storms. Do not show fear of a
storm or baby him/her during a storm.
EXPECT YOUR DOG TO BEHAVE, and he/she will!
Encourage barking for the Smoke
Alarm. Reward this! May come in handy someday.
Teach the “Leave it!” Command. It could save your pup’s life if pills or
glass are dropped on the floor.
ANIMAL POISON CONTROL: 1-888-426-4435
A tablespoon of Hydrogen Peroxide
will stimulate regurgitation if your pup swallows something he/she
shouldn’t. Call Poison Control. Remedy can be repeated 3 x until results.
www.chewy.com (Free shipping over
I use: Crown Royale Biovite OB Shampoo, #2-bought on
I will give you a hard-copy of this
at Puppy Pick-up. Please read through
everything and write down any questions that you have. We can discuss them when we meet. Puppy Pick-up will take about 2 hours. Your final payment will be due at that time. You may use a check, cash, or money order.
Let me know what information is
missing, so that I may add it..............looking forward to seeing you soon!
(No part of these directions may be
used without permission. Contact Lori at:
931-237-0800 or 931-648-8364